Fender Squier Jazz Bass Serial Numbers Indonesia

 Posted admin
  1. Fender Squier Jazz Bass James Johnston
  2. Squier Jazz Bass

So you need to figure out the year of production for your Fender guitar or bass. You're not alone. Fenders rank as the most frequently bought and sold instruments on Reverb, and finding a precise date of manufacture can be key to determining the value and specifics of an instrument.

The most important thing to keep in mind when dating a Fender is the highly modular nature of the designs. Like Henry Ford, part of Leo Fender's genius was in optimizing the company's production efficiency. His guitars were built en masse by an entire factory, not a single luthier toiling over one instrument at a time. Features like bolt-on necks and pickups wired into the pickguard all helped the Fender factory churn out guitar after guitar, day after day. This also means that various parts used on a particular guitar may have come from different points in time, so no single number can absolutely define when the instrument was built.

Instead, the best approach to dating a Fender is to combine indicators from the design of the instrument, the dates found on the neck and body, along with the serial number. Once you have the information you need, if you're interested in selling your Fender, you can use Reverb to get it in front of the largest audience of musicians in the world by clicking on this link.

Design Changes and Features

Perhaps the best place to start when dating your Fender is to get an approximate idea of the era based on the instrument's design and components. This can be a tall order for someone less versed in guitar history, but we do have some resources here on Reverb to help you out.

For starters, there's the

The serial numbering scheme for these instruments initially used the letters “IC” as a prefix indicating that they were made in Indonesia at the Cort factory. Both the “IC” and “ICF” prefixes are followed by an eight-digit number, with the first two.

We also have some other blog posts related to Fender that can hopefully be of some help. There's A Brief History of the Stratocaster Part I and Part II that follows the evolution of the most popular Fender guitar of all. Similarly, take a look at Behold the Jazzmaster for general timeline of the history of everyone's favorite offset guitar. For Fender during the turning point era of the mid-'60s, check out Fender and the CBS Takeover.

Body and Neck Dates

Through much of Fender's production history, Fender workers would print or write a production date on both bodies and necks where the two pieces meet. These dates will tell when the original part was manufactured, but are not exact indicators of when the guitar was actually put together and finished.

Here is what the neck date and body date look like from a 1952 Telecaster:

If you're not comfortable removing the neck of a guitar to peek at the date marker, I encourage you to take it to a local tech or luthier.

I will also mention briefly pot-codes as a resource (numbers on the internal potentiometers of the guitar). These can definitely be useful in cases where no other numbers exist, but just tell when the pot itself was made. Who knows how long it was waiting in the Fender factory before finding its way into a Tele?

Serial Numbers

Like the body and neck dates, using serial numbers to date a Fender is not a sure bet. At many points in Fender's history, serial number usage overlapped again owing to the modular manner of production. Below we'll go into detail about the various serial number schemes employed by Fender as far back as 1950. There are certainly plenty of exceptions, so again, using serial numbers in conjunction with other dating methods is always the best bet.

Fender Squier Jazz Bass James Johnston

Click on the links here to jump directly to the serial number style that matches your instrument:

The Early Years: 1950 - 1954

In the early years, Fender serial numbers schemes were specific to the model. Esquires, Broadcasters and Telecasters shared a serial number sequence, while the landmark Precision Bass had its own system. In this early period, the serial number can be found on the bridge of the instrument (see image).

Here are the rough serial number ranges for the early Esquires and Telecasters:

And here are the ranges for the original Precision Basses:

161 to 357 1951
299 to 619 1952
0001 to 01601952
0161 to 0470 1951 - 1952
0475 to 0840 1952 - 1953
0848 to 1897 1953 - 1954

Also, for the first half or so of 1954, the inaugural run of Stratocasters had a distinct number sequence all under number 6000.

Classic Serial Numbers - 1954 - 1963

By mid-1954, Fender began using a universal serial number sequence for all its instruments. At this time, the location of the serial number also shifted from the bridge to the neckplate (the metal plate located on back of where the neck meets the body).

Here's how the serial numbers break down from 1954 to the beginning of 1963, though there are some areas of inconsistency in this era:

0001 to 7000 1954
7000 to 9000 1955
9000 to 170001956
17000 to 250001957
25000 to 340001958
34000 to 440001959
44000 to 590001960
59000 to 71000 1961
71000 to 93000 1962
93000 to 99999 1963

L Series - The Transition Period of 1963 to 1965

At the very end of 1962 and into 1963, Fender changed to a system where serial numbers began with an 'L.' According to some accounts, the L was supposed to just be a 1 to mark the cross over into the 100,000 range from the previous scheme, but an L was used by mistake.

Here the range of the L-series serial used each year. Some of the earliest ones actually popped up in late 1962 as well:

0L00001 to L200001963
L20000 to L590001964
L59000 to L999991965

F Series - CBS Era 1965 - 1976

After the CBS purchase of Fender in 1965, the factory switched to a new serial sequence with numbers that continued the same general format used prior to the takeover. These are generally referred to as F series due the large Fender branded F on the neckplates of the era. This period also saw a switch from the orginal four-bolt neckplate of the '60s to a three-bolt neckplate in just one example of cost-saving costs introduced under CBS.

100000 to 110000 late 1965
110000 to 200000 1966
200000 to 210000 1967
210000 to 250000 1968
250000 to 280000 1969
280000 to 300000 1970
300000 to 3400001971
340000 to 370000 1972
370000 to 5200001973
500000 to 580000 1974
580000 to 690000 1975
690000 to 750000 1976

Post 1976

Starting in 1976, Fender transitioned to a new serial number scheme and moved the placement of most serial numbers to the headstock of the instrument. Depending on the era and model, the number can be found on either the front or back of the headstock.

After a short period of overlap with the old system, the post-76 numbers will start with a letter that indicates the decade, followed by a number that indicates the year of that decade. The decade letter codes break down like this: S = 1970s, E = 1980s, N = 1990s, Z = 2000s. In the 2000s, you'll also see serials starting with a DZ which indicates the Deluxe series, but the format is otherwise the same.

For example, a serial number with N4 would be from 1994. One starting with Z5 would be from 2005.

This scheme is not 100% consistent due to a number of production factors, such as Fender producing more serialized decals than needed in a given year. This is particularly pronounced in the transitional period of the mid-'80s, though the system has been pretty much on point since about 1990.

After 2009, the letter changed to a format starting with US then two digits that tell the year of the current decade.

Here's the breakdown of Post-1976 American-made Fender serials:

76 + 5 digits1976
S6 + 5 digits1976
S7 + 5 digits1977 - 1978
S8 + 5 digits1978
S9 + 5 digits1978 - 1979
E0 + 5 digits1979 - 1981
E1 + 5 digits1980 - 1982
E2 + 5 digits1982 - 1983
E3 + 5 digits1982 - 1985
E4 + 5 digits1984 - 1988
E8 + 5 digits1988 - 1989
E9 + 5 digits1989 - 1990
N9 + 5 digits1990
N0 + 5 digits1990 - 1991
N1 + 5 or 6 digits1991 - 1992
N2 + 5 or 6 digits1992 - 1993
N3 + 5 or 6 digits1993 - 1994
N4 + 5 or 6 digits1994 - 1995
N5 + 5 or 6 digits1995 - 1996
N6 + 5 or 6 digits1996 - 1997
N7 + 5 or 6 digits1997 - 1998
N8 + 5 or 6 digits1998 - 1999
N9 + 5 or 6 digits1999 - 2000
Z0 + 5 or 6 digits2000 - 2001
Z2 + 5 or 6 digits2001 - 2002
Z3 + 5 or 6 digits2003 - 2004
Z4 + 5 or 6 digits2004 - 2005
Z5 + 5 or 6 digits2005 - 2006
Z6 + 5 or 6 digits2006 - 2007
Z7 + 5 or 6 digits2007 - 2008
Z8 + 5 or 6 digits2008 - 2009
Z9 + 5 or 6 digits2009 - 2010
US10 + 6 digits2010
US11 + 6 digits2011
US12 + 6 digits2012
US13 + 6 digits2013
US14 + 6 digits2014

Signature Series

American-made signature series instruments follow a very similar scheme to the above, but use a prefix S before the decade letter. For example, a Signature Series guitar from 1998 would have a serial starting with SN8 followed by five digits.

American Vintage Reissue models

The major exception to all of this is the American Vintage Reissue (AVRI) series. These have serial numbers starting with V and do not strictly correlate to years. The neck dates on these guitars, however, are usually reliable.

Made in Japan Fender Serials

Fender Japan serial numbers can usually be found on the back of the neck near the neck joint. Though examples also exist with the number on the headstock or the neck-plate in the case of certain early reissue models. Up until 1997, the serial was paired with the words 'Made in Japan.'

In 1982, Fender expanded operations with a series of instruments produced in Japan by the Fuji Gen Gakki company. Like the US serial numbers, MIJ (made in Japan) serials start with a letter or pair of letters that indicate the rough year of production. This system, however, is notoriously inconsistent and incomplete, which makes dating by serial number even less reliable for MIJ Fenders.

Here's a breakdown of serials for the 'Made in Japan' era:

JV + 5 digits1982 - 1984
SQ + 5 digits1983 - 1984
E + 6 digits1984 - 1987
A + 6 digits1985 - 1986
B + 6 digits1985 - 1986
C + 6 digits1985 - 1986
F + 6 digits1986 - 1987
G + 6 digits1987 - 1988
H + 6 digits1988 - 1989
I + 6 digits1989 - 1990
J + 6 digits1989 - 1990
K + 6 digits1990 - 1991
J + 6 digits1990 - 1991
K + 6 digits1990 - 1991
L + 6 digits1991 - 1992
M + 6 digits1992 - 1993
N + 6 digits1993 - 1994
O + 6 digits1993 - 1994
P + 6 digits1993 - 1994
Q + 6 digits1993 - 1994
S + 6 digits1994 - 1995
T + 6 digits1994 - 1995
U + 6 digits1995 - 1996
N + 5 digits1995 - 1996
V + 6 digits1996 - 1997

Crafted in Japan Serial Numbers

In 1997, Fender changed the 'Made in Japan' decal to say 'Crafted in Japan.' There is some overlap with the earlier 'MIJ' serials, so it's important to note if your instrument carries the 'Made in Japan' or 'Crafted in Japan' decal.

Mandatory Credit: Jim Brown-USA TODAY Sports Who were some of the best running backs to ever play for the NY Jets? Here are the top ten running backs to ever wear the green and white. Acronis true image 2013 portable.

Here are the serial numbers for the 'Crafted in Japan' or 'CIJ' era:

A + 6 digits1997 - 1998
O + 6 digits1997 - 2000
P + 6 digits1999 - 2002
Q + 6 digits2002 - 2004
R + 6 digits2004 - 2005
S + 6 digits2006 - 2008
T + 6 digits2007 - 2008

After 2007, Fender Japan switched back to marking Fenders as 'Made in Japan' though for a few years instruments with both decals were made. Serial numbers since this transition have continued the same sequence as the 'CIJ' era.

Made in Mexico Fender Serials

Squier Jazz Bass

Fender opened a factory in Ensenada, Mexico in the late '80s and instruments started coming off the line in 1990. Mexican-made (MIM) Fenders carry a serial number on the headstock starting with an M. Some exceptions include a handful of special editions and signature models as well as the split US/Mexican-made California series which all have a 'AMXN' at the beginning of their serials.

The MIM serial number scheme is actually very straight-forward. For Mexican Fenders made in the 1990s, the serial will start with an MN followed by a number that indicates the year of the decade. Instruments made in the 2000s follow the same form but start with MZ. For the 2010s, the prefix is MX1. For example, a serial number starting with MN2 would be 1992.

Here's the serial number breakdown for a majority of MIM Fenders:

MN0 + 5 or 6 digits 1990
MN1 + 5 or 6 digits 1991
MN2 + 5 or 6 digits 1992
MN3 + 5 or 6 digits 1993
MN4 + 5 or 6 digits 1994
MN5 + 5 or 6 digits 1995
MN6 + 5 or 6 digits 1996
MN7 + 5 or 6 digits 1997
MN8 + 5 or 6 digits 1998
MN9 + 5 or 6 digits 1999
MZ0 + 5 or 6 digits 2000
MZ1 + 5 or 6 digits 2001
MZ2 + 5 or 6 digits 2002
MZ3 + 5 or 6 digits 2003
MZ4 + 5 or 6 digits 2004
MZ5 + 5 or 6 digits 2005
MZ6 + 5 or 6 digits 2006
MZ7 + 5 or 6 digits 2007
MZ8 + 5 or 6 digits 2008
MZ9 + 5 or 6 digits 2009
MX10 + 6 digits 2010
MX11 + 6 digits 2011
MX12 + 6 digits 2012
MX13 + 6 digits 2013
MX14 + 6 digits 2014

Exceptions

Marvell avastar wireless driver download. There are a number of exceptions to all these serial number schemes. As mentioned above, many reissue models use serial numbers that don't really correlate to their age. Additionally, there have been plenty of artist models, limited editions and other rare models that use a unique serial number. Examples include the 35th anniversary series, many of the uniquely finished Strats from the early '80s, as well as various export-specific models which carry a serial number starting with FN.

Again, the serial number alone in any of these cases is not definitive and the best approach is to combine that with other methods like the neck and body dates, as well as just the features of the specific instrument. If you have any questions as to what Fender you're dealing with, I encourage you to seek out a local guitar shop or luthier to help figure it out.

Oops, looks like you forgot something. Please check the fields highlighted in red.

We understand the importance of online privacy and are committed to complying with the EU General Data Protection Regulation. To reflect our commitment, we updated our terms and conditions. By continuing to use Reverb, you agree to these updates, and to our cookie policy. Learn More

Fender jazz bass squier series

All times are UTC - 7 hours

Squier Bass Serial Number Check

Moderator: Fender Forum Moderators Cisco asa 5505 key generator.



Page 1 of 1
[ 14 posts ]
Print viewPrevious topic Next topic
AuthorMessage
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:15 am
Hobbyist

Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:00 am
Posts: 2
Hello. It would want to know to the origin and year of this one Squier Vintage Modified '70s Jazz Serial Number ICS10195256. Thank you very much


Top
Post subject:Re: Squier Bass Serial Number Check
Rock Star

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 3:12 pm
Posts: 6355
Location: Albemarle, NC
IC: I = Indonesia, C = Cor-Tek (Cort), the serial number prefix is followed by a 2 number year. IS: I = Indonesia, S = Samick, the serial number prefix is followed by a 2 number year. For example 'IC02' Made in 2002. In 2009-10 some Indonesian Squier's had the prefix ICS09XXXXX and ICS10XXXXX. There are a number of standard models that have the ICS prefix some are FSR but some are just normal run models. It therefore appears as though the the S in ICS is only an indication as to whether it is a Factory Special Run or FSR guitar (manufactured by Cor-Tek in Indonesia). It also appears likely that any FSR guitar beginning with ICS will be a Squier 'Standard' as opposed to any of the other models i.e. CV, Deluxe etc.
In your case though it is a Vintage Modified model. I'd say it is a Cort made one. I've also seen some serials starting 'I' that were made in India. But ICS is usually Indonesia. The '10' means 2010 model year.
Hope that helps.


Top
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 3:54 am
Hobbyist

Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:00 am
Posts: 2


Top
Post subject:Re: Squier Bass Serial Number Check
Aspiring Musician

Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:43 pm
Posts: 670
Good info brotherdave..as usual.
So if I understand correctly, the Squire VM 5 I just ordered has the serial number ICS12XXXXXX. That would mean that it was probably manufactured in Indonesia - Cort - FSR - made in 2012. Did I miss anything?

_________________
2012 American Standard Precision V - Candy Cola Red
2012 Squier Vintage Modified Jazz V - Surf Green
2011 FCS Custom Classic Special Jazz Bass V - Violin Burst
1996 MIM Stratocaster HSS - Black
1975 Precision Bass - 3 Tone Sunburst


Top
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:02 pm
Rock Star

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 3:12 pm
Posts: 6355
Location: Albemarle, NC


Top
Post subject:Re: Squier Bass Serial Number Check
Hobbyist

Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:28 am
Posts: 74
Location: Arkansas
Thanks Dave! I have a couple of Fender Squire basses that I'm curious about. I'll go look them up


Top
Post subject:Re: Squier Bass Serial Number Check
Hobbyist

Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2014 4:54 pm
Posts: 3
IC: I = Indonesia, C = Cor-Tek (Cort), the serial number prefix is followed by a 2 number year. IS: I = Indonesia, S = Samick, the serial number prefix is followed by a 2 number year. For example 'IC02' Made in 2002. In 2009-10 some Indonesian Squier's had the prefix ICS09XXXXX and ICS10XXXXX. There are a number of standard models that have the ICS prefix some are FSR but some are just normal run models. It therefore appears as though the the S in ICS is only an indication as to whether it is a Factory Special Run or FSR guitar (manufactured by Cor-Tek in Indonesia). It also appears likely that any FSR guitar beginning with ICS will be a Squier 'Standard' as opposed to any of the other models i.e. CV, Deluxe etc.
In your case though it is a Vintage Modified model. I'd say it is a Cort made one. I've also seen some serials starting 'I' that were made in India. But ICS is usually Indonesia. The '10' means 2010 model year.
Hope that helps.

Follow-up question: I understand it's supposed to be ICxx + 6 digits, but what does it mean if it's ICxx + 7 digits?
It looks like it could be IC + YYMMDD + xxx (or possibly IC + YYDDMM + xxx)?


Top
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:38 pm
Rock Star

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 3:12 pm
Posts: 6355
Location: Albemarle, NC
I honestly don't know about the extra digit other than to set apart instruments for FMIC distribution from those going to international distributors. The reason they need to do this is because FMIC and the international Fender/Squier distributors have different warranties and totally separate support systems including service centers. FMIC ships the instrument to the international distributor and they are done with it.
Whenever there is a serial irregularity on a FMIC instrument quite often that is the reason why. This is a practice that actually goes back to Fender's early days. The oddball serial locks the international instruments out of FMIC North American support. All the online serial guides, dater software sites etc base all their data exclusively on the FMIC distributed serials.
Therefore it is entirely possible to have a genuine Fender '76 Jazz Bass with a serial that doesn't fit any published format on any website and in cases like that it is because it was shipped from the factory to an international distributor. They are genuine, but the serial won't 'compute' or match exactly with any online data.


Top
Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:55 pm
Hobbyist

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 14
Is there a consensus on the Squier made-in-Indonesia P-basses?
As compared to the Squier Affinity made-in-China basses?


Top
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:35 am
Rock Star

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 3:12 pm
Posts: 6355
Location: Albemarle, NC
Is there a consensus on the Squier made-in-Indonesia P-basses?
As compared to the Squier Affinity made-in-China basses?

I wouldn't say a consensus but more of a general understanding that the Affinity is an entry line with woods, hardware, electronics etc that is not quite as good as the more expensive models. The Standards will be better and any Deluxe or Artist Series instrument can be better still.
That being said it is entirely possible to get an Affinity that is a totally usable instrument. You may have to demo 10 to find one you really like, but even an Affinity is better than no P-Bass at all.
The fact is a higher end Chinese bass can whoop up pretty good on anything Indonesia comes out with. The Chinese actually can make basses superior to Indonesia. So, it isn't so much where it is made as the components used to make it and the skill of the factory workers. When you buy an Affinity you are pretty much assured it has student caliber electronics and hardware like softer metal in the frets and the cheapest woods they could get in mass quantity, but still some are better than others so be patient and pick carefully in the Affinity line and you can get a very usable bass. For someone just starting out an Affinity is perfectly fine. I mean after all you don't know if you are going to be serious about playing or if it is just a passing fancy. There are also WORSE entry level instruments than Affinity series basses. Way worse. For the money an Affinity is not bad at all, but in reality they are good mainly for a student or beginner. For serious play I'd step up the Standard at least. Another option is the Squier Jaguar models. The Jaguar series is amazing for the money because it costs just a tad more than an Affinity and has an active preamp.

Last edited by brotherdave on Sun Oct 12, 2014 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 11:32 am
Hobbyist

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 14
Thanks, Brother Dave!
That's pretty much what I thought on all points. Especially the newbie comments! My main interest was which country produced the better basses and it seems that China has better craftsmanship in general than Indonesia.
I ended up buying this Indonesia P-Bass for $75 because it was in very nice condition and the hardware looked better than I've seen on a lot of el cheapo-os. If you just look at the hardware and the quality of finish, it could pass as a Fender Standard.
In the harsh light of the next day I discovered the less-than-beautiful aspects of the instrument. The action was about 5/8' at the 12th fret, for starters. Using the 'Bass Setup To Fender Specs' link on your site, I ran through all the steps and got a decent player out of it!
Someone with less mechanical skill than I and with poorer quality tools had attempted some setup before on this bass -- it was obvious.
__________
Anyway, it plays nice now and I'll probably keep it while I learn and practice and see if my interest lasts.
__________
Next step: Shield Your Bass using the Brother Dave recommendations!


Top
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 11:37 am
Hobbyist

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 14
Based on another Brother Dave recommendation, I ordered Carol Kaye's book 'How To Play the Electric Bass' from Amazon, noting that it was sold and shipped by an outside vendor.
Two days later it came in the mail from.. Carol Kaye herself!! She signed inside with a personal note to me even! I thought that was pretty darn cool!


Top
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 10:20 pm
Rock Star

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 3:12 pm
Posts: 6355
Location: Albemarle, NC
..Next step: Shield Your Bass using the Brother Dave recommendations!

I'd hold off on copper shielding to ground that or any other split coil 2nd generation design P-Bass. Due to the hum cancelling effects of the phasing in the split coil pickup applying copper shielding probably isn't really enough of a benefit to justify the hassle or expense of the copper. Sure it is only about $15 but it really doesn't make much difference at all on a split coil P-Bass, just the 1951/56 single coil Precisions and the handful of modern basses modeled after them. On a split coil P-Bass I'd only worry about it if you have a hum problem and you probably won't. They are essentially noise free stock compared to a Jazz or 51/56 P-Bass.
Have I shielded passive split coil P-Basses? Yes, the ones I plan to keep forever and they are Fenders. Did it make any difference? Very little if any at all. I don't think I'd do it again because it really wasn't worth the time spent doing it or the copper on a modern passive split coil P-Bass. I really don't think it improved the noise floor enough to justify the hassle. I don't mind the $15 for the copper material, but it takes me several hours. In the end copper foil shielding a split coil Precision won't make it any worse, but it doesn't make it perceptibly better either. Unless you are having noise issues for some reason, I'd skip it because I will if I ever get another new modern passive P-Bass.
However on any passive single coil Jazz, a P/J or First Generation type Precision single coil bass copper shielding has immediate and cost effective noise reduction benefits. On P/J setups there only seems to be a perceptible benefit in shielding the Jazz pickup cavity and the control cavity while skipping the pickguard shield application since that is where the P pickup lives and instead run a small diameter ground wire from the control cavity through the channel to the Jazz pickup cavity to solder to the copper shielding there. I'd skip shielding the P pickup cavity entirely. Even when Jazzes, P/J's and single-coil first-generation P-Bass instruments (Like the Squier Classic Vibe 50's P-Bass) have shielding paint factory applied in the cavities in my experience copper foil cavity shielding to ground makes an obvious improvement in RFI rejection and hum reduction. Shielding paint is better than nothing, but not as good as copper foil. Foil shielding the back of the pickguard to ground only has a benefit when the pickguard actually surrounds a single coil pickup and on P/J's and most first generation single coil P-Basses the pickguard doesn't surround a single coil pickup.
There is NOTHING like the sound of a first-generation P-Bass to me and I totally love that tone, but no other bass is more sensitive to RFI either. On a Jazz you can always turn both volumes up full to get some noise cancelling due to the phasing of the pickups but on a first generation single coil P-Bass you can not do that since there is only one pickup. That leaves copper foil shielding to ground as the best option to lower the noise floor. Also I urge installing a chrome pickup cover on first-generation based instruments more for protection of the fragile pickup than for shielding. If you run a ground wire from the pickup cavity shielding and wrap it around the cover screw that gives a slight shielding benefit also, but in reality most people are not going to hassle with that because the benefit is so small. Even Leo Fender stopped grounding the pickup cover after 1951. Still the pickup on these instruments is way more fragile than a plastic covered 2nd generation P-Bass or Jazz pickup and if you don't install the chrome pickup cover you must resist using the pickup for a thumbrest. Sure there are some good tones when you pluck right over the pickup, but it is almost as good right next to the cover. Pickup covers on a split coil P-Bass on the other hand are just for cosmetics and don't really do much otherwise.


Top
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:11 pm
Hobbyist

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 14


Top
Page 1 of 1
[ 14 posts ]

All times are UTC - 7 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum